Last updated on March 14th, 2018 at 07:36 pm
POWDER COATED STEEL
The best quality at the lowest possible price. Modern metal partitions are finished using powder coat over galvanized steel yielding a surface resistant to corrosion, grease, acids, mars and stains. The best quality at the lowest possible price.
Economical & durable, 3 year warranty
Laminate is a classic toilet partition material that offers many color and pattern choices. The high pressure laminate finishes, bonded under pressure to a solid impact-resistant particle board core, meet or exceed all NEMA standards. Edge banding of all components prior to face lamination ensures optimum water runoff and durability
A classic choice, 5 year warranty
Solid plastic is highly resistant to most common cleaners, moisture, mold, mildew and graffiti. This is the ideal material for any shower room, or in any busy public restroom. Solid plastic is extremely durable, does not rust, or easily dent. Available in a wide array of colors.
Very low maintenance, 15 year warranty*
Phenolic partitions are the material of choice where durability and strength are required. These partitions are fabricated to stand the test of time. The dense components, combined with stainless steel brackets and fasteners, stand up to the most extreme conditions of moisture and humidity. Phenolic is impact, water, and corrosion resistant, and does not support bacteria.
Durable & contemporary, 10 year warranty
The beauty of stainless steel easily compliments any contemporary bathroom interior. Stainless toilet partitions are corrosion resistant, easy to maintain, and also allow for scratches to simply be buffed away. Partitions can be purchased in either satin or textured finishes.
High class & high quality, 5 year warranty
How to Install Bathroom Partitions
Installing restroom partitions is a lot of work, but when done methodically, it is a simple step-by-step process like any other. Proper installation of bathroom partitions will ensure comfort and privacy for the user as well as long-term use and economy for the owner. Doing a good job installing partitions means less stress and expenditure down the road.
Since 2007, One Point Partitions has been supplying attractive and durable bathroom partitions to customers across the nation. We’re proud of our selection of materials and colors and make it easier for you to upgrade your bathroom with our simplified design and ordering process. Your order includes all of the hardware and accessories you need for a fast and easy installation.
While some customers choose to hire a professional bathroom installer to install their partitions, you will see that this isn’t necessary. All of our partitions come with clear instructions on how to install them correctly. To illustrate this process, we will first take a look at the parts and tools needed for the job. Then we will walk through the 10 steps you’ll need to take to properly install restroom partitions. Let’s dive in with what you’ll need to get started!
Start With the Right Design
The key to hassle-free installation is designing the right partition layout from the beginning. When you order from One Point Partitions, you have two easy ways to create the perfect design:
- With our handy online design tool
- With the help of our talented design team
Our designs take into account the exact dimensions of your bathroom space. Other vendors will try to sell you “standard” bathroom partition kits that just won’t fit right. With One Point Partitions, you get a custom partition layout that fits your restroom and simplifies installation.
Prepare Your Bathroom
Once your order is placed, it is time to prepare your bathroom. For new bathrooms and restrooms, ensure that all wall, floor and ceiling work is done and that your bathroom fixtures are in place, if possible. If you are upgrading or renovating an existing bathroom, you will want to remove your old partitions and make any modifications and upgrades to your walls, floors and fixtures before you start installing. Repair any holes in the wall and floor from your old partitions, as your new layout will require new mounting holes.
The Parts and Tools You’ll Need to Get Started
Restroom partitions come in three main parts plus hardware. Here are the standard components of restroom partitions:
- Panels: These are the flat surfaces separating stalls. They are the largest components in the partitions and are generally around 58″ tall. Make sure when storing these panels to lay them flat, with the weight evenly distributed. Do not lean them against a wall, as this can cause warping.
- Doors: Doors to restroom stalls can be either inswing or outswing. This varies depending on the layout of the restroom, the amount of space in the stalls and the owner’s preference. Doors are the same height as panels at 58″.
- Pilasters: These are the stiles that connect the doors to the panels and provide additional privacy. Pilasters are structurally important to the restroom partition because they are what anchor it to the floor or ceiling. Pilasters come in several different styles. They can be anchored to the floor, strung together with an overhead brace, hung from the ceiling or span from floor to ceiling and be anchored to both.
- Hardware: Screws, anchors and brackets are all part of bathroom partitions. There are several types of brackets: F brackets, U brackets, Y brackets, alcove brackets and L-brackets. Each is useful for mounting parts to different surfaces. The Y bracket is used to mount the parts to one another, such as the panels to the partitions. Make sure to keep these in a safe place to avoid losing them.
Additionally, you will need the right tools to get this job done. It is always useful to have a tool belt for streamlining your work and staying organized. Make sure you have the following:
- Chalk line
- Plumb bob
- Masking tape
- Tape measure and pencils
- Center punch
- Drill and a set of drill bits
- Screwdriver and a set of screwdriver bit heads
- Torx screwdriver
- Adjustable wrench
- Allen wrenches
Before you begin with any sort of drilling or anchoring, you will need to plan and measure everything exactly. This is important — you want the locations of your anchors to line up with the panels and pilasters while properly accounting for the width of the doors.
Start by taking your pencil and chalk line and consulting the layout guide. Snap a chalk line across the front centerline to establish where the front of the stalls will lie. Remember to account for the width of the stiles and doors. When measuring from the wall, divide the width by 2 and subtract this from the measurement.
Next, measure out the location of the wall anchors and mark them with a pencil. Use a level to ensure your panel wall anchors are oriented vertically from one another.
Double-check your measurements for accuracy. Be sure all floor to ceiling drops are plumb and that panels and pilasters are square. Once you have confirmed that everything is correct, it is time to start drilling and installing anchors.
Step 1: Pay Attention to the Direction of Installation
One common problem that comes up is installing brackets, supports, rails or panels backward or upside down. Watch the tutorial videos closely and pay close attention to the instructions, as many brackets can only be installed one way. Taking a bit of time beforehand to verify the orientation of mounting hardware can save time and hassle versus having to remove and re-install certain components.
Think about printing off a copy of your partition design and keeping it handy during installation. This can help you visualize how it will look once fully installed. Our videos give tips on using supports and blocks to position partitions and doors at the right height for installation, but having a second pair of hands is also a big help. Make sure that someone is available to help you during installation — especially when installing the partitions themselves or hanging doors, for example.
Step 2: Set Up Anchor Points
When you have all of the spots marked for your anchors, begin pre-drilling holes for floor brackets. Remember: these will be a certain distance out from the centerline — likely 7/8″ or so — depending on your layout.
When pre-drilling holes in the floor, first drill the hole to the required minimum depth. Then, clean all debris and dust out of the hole to ensure the anchors have a tight grip. This can be done with a vacuum attachment or with a handheld squeezer.
When preparing ceiling anchor points, make sure you are drilling into the structural beam behind the surface. All work should be done before the ceiling surface is finished. If the structural member is a metal I-beam, you’ll need to bore a hole through the metal and fix the rod with a hex nut, lock washer and bevel washer to ensure it sits vertically in the beam. Where the rod exits the underside of the beam, use another hex nut and spacer to account for the thickness of the finishing.
Step 3: Insert Floor and Ceiling Anchors
Once you have cleaned the holes in the floor, it’s time to begin work fixing the anchors in place. Add your floor anchors with the threaded ends up and screw a nut loosely onto the end of them. The portion that goes into the floor will be the wedge anchor — this expands as the lower nut is tightened in place. Once the wedge anchors are in place, tap them in lightly with a hammer to set them properly and then tighten with a wrench.
Ceiling anchors should already be installed by the time the finished ceiling is up. Consequently, the finished ceiling must be in place before restroom partitions are installed.
Where the threaded rod exits the finished ceiling, you’ll need to first install a flat shoe retainer and then a hex nut. Below this hex nut, in between two flat washers, the leveling bar will rest and gain its support from the ceiling anchor. The bottom flat washer will be held in place by a lock washer and a nut.
Step 4: Install Brackets and Posts on Walls
Before beginning to drill, use the brackets themselves as a guide on the wall. Place them on the centerline and mark all holes, ensuring everything is plumb. Double- and triple-check for squareness with ceiling and floor anchors, checking the distance from wall to pilaster.
Then, use a drill bit to bore pilot holes of appropriate thickness and depth into the wall. Make sure there is enough backing behind the wall to support the brackets and panels. If you are mounting on drywall, you may need to use appropriate anchors to ensure a sturdy fit. Then, take the brackets and mount them with the appropriate screws.
For the wall post that will hold the door — that is, on the restroom stall that lies in the corner of the room — you’ll need to install a wall post. This post must be able to support the weight of a moving door, so make sure it’s properly seated in line with backing support like a beam or wooden stud. You’ll need to have taken adequate preparation to mount the wall post if the support beam is metal. Refer to the instructions for mounting ceiling anchors.
Step 5: Put Panels in Position
To position the panels with a minimal amount of effort and frustration, use two adjustable supports. These supports sit on the floor and hold the panel at the correct angle and height so you can mount it properly.
Place the two supports so that they will hold the panel 12″ above the floor, directly in line with the wall brackets and perpendicular to the wall itself. Do not fasten the panels to the wall brackets yet. This could put too much strain on the wall brackets, so the next step is to prep the pilasters to support the other end.
Step 6: Put Pilaster-to-Panel Brackets in Place
The pilaster-to-panel brackets will hold the panels in place on the outer end of the configuration. Do not assume that the panels will rest directly on the centerline of the pilasters. Always refer to the schematic to see where these panels will lie before installing brackets.
The pilaster-to-panel brackets will be either of U- or L-type. Once you know where they are supposed to go, measure precisely and draw the centerline of the panel directly on the stile in pencil. Take the brackets and use them as a guide to draw the positions of the holes required to mount them.
Use the appropriate size drill bit to bore pilot holes into the pilasters. These pilot holes will likely be less than half an inch thick, so take care not to drill through the entire pilaster.
When installing continuous U-brackets on the pilasters, draw a centerline and ensure the U-bracket is in the correct position, both top and bottom, before sketching the mounting holes. Once again, use it as a guide for marking where the mounting holes will fall. Then, bore the holes with a pilot bit.
Finally, attach all brackets to pilasters with the proper screws.
Step 7: Mount Pilasters
You will mount the pilasters onto the floor anchors, whose threaded ends should be ready to receive them on the floor below. After they are set, lightly secure them with a flat washer, a lock washer and a nut. On ceiling anchors, these will already be in place. Don’t tighten them just yet.
Now observe the panel, which should be resting in the brackets and coming in contact with the screw heads within them. This ensures proper fit and plumb for both the panel and the pilaster. If the brackets and panel are correctly aligned, bore pilot holes and then secure the panel with screws.
When the panel is fixed to the pilaster, place a level on top of the panel and shim it against the wall until it is level. Additionally, use another level to plumb the pilaster using the slack of the threaded floor anchors. Make sure everything is square, plumb and true before attaching the panels to the walls — this will ensure the doors sit properly in the openings.
Finally, attach panels to their corresponding wall brackets.
Step 8: If Using a Headrail, Install It Now
If your configuration uses headrails, it is time to install them after fixing the panels to the wall brackets. Front headrails are those that run along the front of the stalls, while return headrails connect the front headrails to the wall. To start, measure the width from wall to wall, or from wall to the outside edge of the pilaster if in a corner stall. Position the headrail over the pilaster.
The return headrail may need to be cut in order to fit. Measure the distance between the inner surface of the front headrail and the wall. As before, use the headrail’s brackets as templates for marking the position of pilot holes. Then, fasten the headrails in place both to the walls and to one another.
Step 9: Put Inswing or Outswing Doors in Place
First, organize your hinges into left-handed and right-handed orientations. These will separate into upper and lower halves. Then, take the two halves that contain toothed bushings and fasten them onto the pilasters. Using the hinge pin and the plastic cam, install and ready the upper half of the hinge to receive the door.
Take the door and hang it on the upper halves of the hinges. If installed properly, the door should hang on them without having to be held. Once it is doing so, take the lower halves of the hinges and install them. You can also adjust the opening of the door once the hinges are on using the alignment tabs on the cam and bushing.
Latches and coat hangers should go on next. These will likely use Torx screws to fasten in place.
Step 10: Install Shoes and Support Brackets
The final pieces of the puzzle are the shoes and support brackets.
Begin by making sure you have the appropriate shoe for the width of your pilaster. Check that you have installed the shoe retainer on the floor anchors — the bottom flange of the shoe will slide under this to secure it in place. Simply open the shoe’s end and slide it under the shoe retainer. When you have closed it, install the retaining screw to keep it snugly in place.
Support brackets are a type of knee bracing that maintains the structural rigidity of your bathroom partitions. They are particularly useful for larger panels in corner stalls, where the door will be fixed to a stile and secured against the panel. If the stiles are mounted on the floor, install the support bracket as high as possible on the panel. On the other hand, if you are using a set of partitions that are hung from the ceiling, you will install the support bracket as low as possible.
Consult Our Team for Help
If you are unsure how to get started or have a question at any point during the installation of your bathroom partitions, we can help. Our team is available through our online message system, by email or over the phone. All of our bathroom partitions are designed to be easy to install, so we’re confident that you will be able to complete installation for a fresh, attractive and appealing new bathroom.
We remind you to check out the video associated with the type of partitions you choose (Powder-Coated Steel, Laminate, Solid Plastic, Phenolic or Stainless Steel). There are some small differences in how the partitions are secured to the walls, floor and each other, and the videos will detail the exact steps necessary for a fast and hassle-free installation. Get ready for a totally different bathroom experience with our easy-to-install restroom partitions!
Create Your Design Today
Now that you see how easy it can be to upgrade your bathroom with new partitions, it’s time to create your custom design. Start with our online design tool or fill in our quote form and get our talented design team to help you out. Using the exact dimensions of your bathroom ensures the partitions you order will fit properly and be easy to install. You won’t find a better way to buy quality bathroom partitions than through One Point Partitions!
You can place your order in just a few clicks and we will ship your order off to you. You can even change your color choice before placing your order without affecting cost or lead time. Once we have shipped your order off to you, it’s simply a matter of following our video tutorials and installing your new partitions. Say goodbye to your tired old bathroom and get ready for a breath of fresh air in your new, clean, attractive and inviting bathroom!